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The Top Column Support is either a brass bushing pressed into a mild steel pipe, or simply a suitable sized steel pipe. The steering column will turn inside this and is prevented from moving by two split pins and washers. The reason the brass bushing is inside a mild steel pipe is to facilitate it’s fixing to the strut, by welding. The other end of this strut can either be welded or bolted to the chassis, however this can only be done with a person sitting in the kart and to adjust the height etc. and then finally to weld it in position.
The bottom Bushing/pivot can also either be bolted or more simply welded to the chassis, all of which should be done with a person/ driver sitting in the kart. A vice-grips or a clamp can be used to keep everything in the correct position before welding. The bottom pivot can either be turned out on a lathe, or an ordinary pipe, with a suitable washer welded on.
However it is my recommendation to leave the installation of the Steering column and Drop Arm until the near end of the kart’s completion. This can then be adjusted to fit everything else i.e.. drop arm, seating position, pedals.
The installation and construction of these is fairly simple. Basically the rods are 16/20mm mild steel tubing, cut to the given length, with nuts (M10) welded to each end of each pipe. These nuts will receive “rose end bearings”, which as well as providing a suitable fixing to the Steering Arms as well as providing a certain amount of adjustment. In the middle the Drop Arm will simply bolt to these “rose bearings”. At the ends where they meet the “hub steering arm” they simply bolt together Once the track rods are in place the steering wheel and drop arm can be installed accordingly.
There are a few ways of mounting the engine to the chassis. The main function of the cradle/mounting is to prevent the engine from Rocking (if it was loosely secured). To prevent the chain from loosing it’s tension due to engine movement, and to prevent the engine from coming clean off the kart on a rough road. Therefore all welding as on the rest of the kart must be up to scratch. All bolts again as with the rest of the kart must be High Tensile (8.8). My hope is to be able to take the engine off the kart and to easily bolt it back on the kart at any stage, only requiring the removal of 4 bolts, cables and chain. And for the future provide a universal mounting/ Base plate for any better engines one may come across, and all they’ll need to be mounted to the engine is a personal Cradle.
The way the engine is mounted (a motorbike engine) to chassis (as you might be able to see in the link to “pictures of kart”) is quite simple. If you are planning of having any other sort of engine skip on down the page to “GENERAL PURPOSE ENGINES” It’s construction is totally out of light 1.5″ (75mm) angle iron. The Base plate is constructed out of this angle iron as well as the engine Cradle. The main reason I used angle iron is because, firstly it’s fairly strong, secondly I had a load of the stuff from an old roof rack of a van, and thirdly the engine can slide along this channel to adjust the chain etc, preventing sideways movement of the engine, thus upsetting the chain alignment, and only requiring fixing bolts. We follow all the safety measures and guidelines of the extreme dune buggy Dubai ride. We also provide safety gears for a smooth ride. So, you can trust our service without a second thought.